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May We Suggest: Restaurant Menus and the Art of Persuasion, by Alison Pearlman

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Review

Advance praise for Alison Pearlman’s May We Suggest:“This is a dangerous book—for your waistline, your wallet, and your sense of reason. . . . Call this a tasting menu of foodie heavenly history.” —Paco Underhill, author, Why We Buy: The Science of Shopping“An effective and engaging discovery of the mechanisms that, in more or less subtle ways, orchestrate our experiences when we eat out. A great tool to understand how restaurants work.” —Fabio Parasecoli, professor of food studies, New York University

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About the Author

Art historian and cultural critic Alison Pearlman looks at the design and marketing of restaurants to tell our social story. She is the author of Smart Casual: The Transformation of Gourmet Restaurant Style in America, and she blogs as The Eye in Dining. She teaches in the art department at California State Polytechnic University, Pomona, and lives in Los Angeles.

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Product details

Paperback: 280 pages

Publisher: Agate Surrey (October 16, 2018)

Language: English

ISBN-10: 9781572842601

ISBN-13: 978-1572842601

ASIN: 1572842601

Product Dimensions:

5.5 x 0.8 x 8.5 inches

Shipping Weight: 9.8 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)

Average Customer Review:

5.0 out of 5 stars

4 customer reviews

Amazon Best Sellers Rank:

#83,454 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

I could not wait for my review copy, so I raced out and bought one, and was not disappointed! It was a 3-night read, and what a read! I have read almost all of Alison Pearlman’s previous books (she is admittedly a long-standing friend), but this one went way beyond my expectations. May We Suggest: Restaurant Menus and the Art of Persuasion was clearly in the spirit of Roland Barthes’s Mythologies – specifically I am thinking of his short but delectable pieces on “Soap Powders and Detergents,” “Steak and Chips,” and “Plastic” – but Pearlman’s book is altogether genre-bending. And there is nothing rhetorical about it; it is all substance, treating the inconsequential menu as the spine of the dining experience. So, to call it even post-Post-structural (with a tongue buried deeply in my cheek) does not do it justice. You’d have to go back to some of the entries in Walter Benjamin’s Arcades Projects – but this time I’m not going to tell you which ones – to find anything so finely written, so intellectually bracing, so informative, and so much fun to read. Its pages define a pleasure emporium Samuel Taylor Coleridge himself might have envied. It is filled to repletion with details and flourishes about the subtle (and not so subtle) politics and sociology of food, from the sublimations of dinner (great for someone such as myself who is always dieting and failing at it) to the secret delights of submission when it comes to experiencing the far side of the tasting-menu. This is coming no less from someone who revels in the menu at Arturo’s here in New York (although in the end I always order the Fiesta), not to mention John’s Pizza on Bleecker St., and who just recently dined privately in the ‘wine cellar’ at Massimo Bottura’s Osteria Francescana in Modena, boasting three Michelin stars and recently rated the top restaurant in the world, where even the president of France finds the food fit to eat – where the spoken menu, not to mention the fragrances sprayed from afar via ancient glass vials, vies with any of John R. Searle’s speech acts and de Saussure’s classic parole. Pearlman’s book is a marvel, and don’t let my silly, over-the-top, over-intellectualizations deter you from indulging your culinary appetites, from the basest to the most sublime, from the most unseemly to the most cognitive or obscure, and what will surely be one of your more exotic reading experiences. Pearlman knows how to go high and how to go low when it comes to menu analytics. This is the manual of menus to end all such previously nonexistent manuals. Enjoy what Barthes would have described, if he were still adrift in the streets of Paris, this analytical paroxysm, raising the lowly menu, as Pearlman has surely done, to the status of a poignant monument. Alison Pearlman has done for the menu what Mark Kurlansky did for salt and what Jared Diamond did for guns, germs, and steel!

May WE PRESUME BY Alison PearlmanWho should read this book? Certainly anyone contemplating opening a restaurant, whether a local diner, a mid-level operation or a high end specialty place for gourmets. This is not a HowTo book nor a Tell All book like Kitchen Confidential. It is a lucid look by a dedicated diner at restaurants that shows the truly daunting (or exciting) task taken on by anyone who wants to own or run a restaurant. The gifts of such a hero or heroine should include on an unpretentious level the grasp and command of a CEO, the humility of one who can take on at short notice the lowliest job in his establishment, the design capacity of judgement of a trained art critic. And half a dozen more talents, like alertness to trends in the trade or the neighborhood.It is primarily not about the design of a restaurant building, but of the most important item within it: the menu, in both senses. That is, the piece of printed information in your hands and the actual food that it purports to describe. Regulars often will not bother with a menu; they know what they want; or will forgive poor ambience if the food (the menu) is genuinely good and cheap.As I say, the book will not tell you how to do things, but it will tell you how others have dealt with them, and does so in clear often elegant and sometimes witty prose --- everything about the design of the menu (paper or plastic?): its size: a single page slip or a volume ?; its font choices and color, the placing of items on the page, even the possibility of an invisible menu where you conspire with the chef to see what he can create from what was in the market that day.If you cannot learn from this book and its masterly survey of what menu has meant from Appleby’s to Nozawa Bar (where the bill came to over $200 each), you should certainly try an easier trade. You will certainly never again look at a menu in the casual way you and I usually do.

When the server hands out menus, diners are filled with eager anticipation of the flavorful food to come. To us diners, the menu is a user's manual that instructs us how to assemble our meal. To restaurants, the menu is a sales tool intended to influence our decisions. How does it exert influence? Does it really affect our choices? How else do restaurants engage in the art of persuasion? These are among the key questions Pearlman probes in this unprecedented study. As would be expected from an academic book, she analyzes and theorizes with rigor. What's unexpected is the extent of her hands-on fieldwork, comprised of visits to 60 (!) restaurants. Pearlman's fascinating book is an enlightening read for everyone curious about the range of coded and explicit messages we diners receive from restaurants.

This is an excellent book. Many of us hold menus in our hands or look at them on various kinds of boards all the time without ever giving it much thought. Pearlman has given those menus a lot of thought and has produced a work that addresses questions of the economics, culture and politics of food and restaurants. However, she does this in a way that is compelling, fun to read and intellectually rigorous.Pearlman has succeeded in writing an academic book that will be valuable to scholars of schools and restaurants, a category to which I do not belong, as well as generalists interested in thinking a little more about restaurants, menus and food. After reading this book, I will never look at a menu the same way again.I should warn you that at times the book will make you hungry, but that is part of the fun of reading the book as she author is clearly somebody who not only writes about food, but enjoys it and brings that to the page as well.

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